Into Arizona And The Grand Canyon

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 I was ready to actually start the Arizona Trail. But first there was a little surprise when I woke up the next morning. Buckskin Gulch where I needed to hike out was now full of water due to nearby rains. I checked and verified that the water level was actually declining and waded for about a mile through the red sludge.

The Trail Ahead

Feet Needed Washing


Fortunately Wire Pass was dry, so I had no more issues to reach Stateline Campground, where the trail officially starts. It started to rain again and I found refuge under the canopy of an unclaimed campsite. I cooked lunch and kept my eyes on the trail head to see who else was starting the AZT today. Nobody. In fact, when I looked at the trail register, there was only one other aspiring thru-hiker who had started the day before. This was a bit of a surprise and very different from my PCT experience where another hiker started every few minutes.


Hello Arizona!


The rain eventually stopped and I started up into the Buckskin Mountain area.


Feels Like Spring 


For the following few days I hiked the enormous Kaibab Plateau, it’s lush green meadows and forests a welcome change to the bare rocks of southern Utah.


Kaibab Plateau


However, the undisputed highlight of this section was the Grand Canyon. I actually diverted from the official AZT route to hike along the North Rim.


First Glimpse


That trail was in surprisingly bad shape. It clearly hadn’t seen trail maintenance in a long time and there were wash outs, overgrown sections and plenty of fallen trees to climb over. The views were great though and I had the trail completely to myself. It seems that almost all park visitors stick to the main trails around the rim and to the canyon floor.


Imperial Point


I arrived at the North Rim campground late and completely exhausted as I hadn’t expected this rough going. I was glad that I planned an extra day to explore and recover.


Good Morning!


In addition to the canyon views I also checked out the beautiful lodge that nicely blends into the landscape.


Grand Canyon Lodge

I destroyed their breakfast buffet…


The following morning I packed up and headed to the North Kaibab Trail to hike to the canyon floor. 


North Kaibab Trail


The weather was great and the views amazing. 


Looking back at the North Rim


Halfway down there was a side trail to beautiful Upper Ribbon Falls that involved a wet creek crossing, a bit of bushwhacking and even some route finding, but was very rewarding.


Upper Ribbon Falls - Small, but pretty


However, it took me an additional three hours to complete, so again I arrived at camp after dark. I had scored a permit for camping two nights at the famed Bright Angel campground near the Phantom Ranch. 

Hello darkness my old friend…


I spent most of the next day exploring the canyon floor, first hiking the Clear Creek Trail to some amazing view points.


Phantom Ranch

Colorado River


Later I crossed one of the foot bridges over the mighty Colorado River and hiked the River Trail, returning to my camp via a second bridge, just as impressive as the first one.





In the afternoon it was too hot to hike and I went to chill in the cold Bright Angel Creek, rinsing off the sweat and grime of the previous hiking days.

Colorado River


At night it started to rain and there was a flurry of activity in the campground as many people had opted to cowboy camp or just used their inner tent to alleviate the hot weather at the canyon floor. It continued to rain in the morning and on and off throughout the day which made for good hiking conditions. I hiked up the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim and made it there just in time for lunch. It was pretty cold up there and I was happy that I got a seat in a restaurant right on the rim. The canyon was now completely covered in clouds.


A mule train bringing supplies


The rain finally stopped late afternoon and the sky cleared overnight for glorious morning views. 


South Rim


I was spending another night at the South Rim, so I went exploring the Rim Trail most of the day.


Moody Sky


The next morning I plan to pick up my next supply package from the post office and say goodbye to the marvelous Grand Canyon to continue my hike.


Hello there!


Comments

  1. PTSeptember 27, 2023 at 1:54 PM

    Hello Michael, again incredible impressions from your hike. Thank you for this. Good luck for your journey!

    ReplyDelete

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