Hello, Hayduke!

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 Today I received a long awaited email from a backcountry ranger at Grand Canyon National Park. "Hello Michael, I drew up a permit for you...". That was the moment my next thru-hiking adventure started to feel real.

It's been two and a half years since my last long hike, the Arizona Trail. Back then, I had added roughly 100 miles through southern Utah, more out of convenience than anything else. By starting my hike in Bryce Canyon instead of the Arizona border I could just take a bus from Las Vegas instead of scrambling to find transportation to the official terminus. I ended up liking this part of the hike more than most sections of the official trail and started looking into hiking the complete route.

Overlooking Grand Gulch in Capitol Reef National Park

At first, it sounded too daunting. The Hayduke is an 800–850-mile, mostly off-trail route linking Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon and Zion National Parks across the Colorado Plateau. All my previous thru-hikes had been established trails with trail towns, general stores used to hikers' needs and even an app (FarOut) that would show the status of the next water source almost in real time. None of this exists along the Hayduke. 

It's not even an established trail. While researching, I found that it’s conceptually a route with many alternates. In fact, the Grand Canyon permit I received is for such an alternate. Last year's Dragon Bravo Fire wiped out big parts of the North Rim, including the iconic Grand Canyon Lodge. It is unclear if the North Kaibab Trail, which is part of the Hayduke, will open this year, so I chose to hike along the Tonto Trail on the south side of the canyon and cross further west to skirt the fire-damaged area.

Halls Creek Narrows - Capitol Reef NP

Apart from figuring out the best route and actually finding it in the desert, other unique challenges include lack of reliable water sources for long stretches and of resupply points for food near the trail. Difficult terrain that involves scrambling and requires moderate climbing skills. And of course the extreme temperatures in the desert and the potential of flash floods that I already know from the Arizona Trail.

It’s something I’ve never done before. It’s far from certain that I can complete the route, but I am really excited about giving it my best shot. Excited to trade the relative security of an established trail for the freedom to choose my own path. Excited to leave my comfort zone behind for a while...

Camping in Grand Staircase Escalate National Monument



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